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Sanne · 03-09-2007, 01:53 PM #3 (**permalink**)

Eye makeup

for this lesson you should remember 1 rule: Use dark shades to create depth and light colors to make features stand out.

Step 1:
Before the make-up, first take a moment to analyze the eyes; look at the shape, the size of the eyes, the size of the eyelid, the way the eyes are set in the face, are the close set or not, are they hooded, deep set, wide set etc.

These are makeup tips for the following eyeshapes:

Round eyes,
Deep set eyes,
Small eyes,
Hooded eyelids,
Downturned eyes,
Close set eyes,
Wide set eyes.

Round eyes:
When you take a good look at round eyes, you usually see that the eyelid is too big, and standing out a bit.

Steps:
· Make the eyelid (where it’s too big) darker,
· Don’t use frosted eyeshadow, especially not on the eyelid!
· Apply eyeliner with liquid eyeliner, eyepencil or wet eyeshadow. The line should be thicker in the middle of the eyelid.
· Don’t use thick lines at the bottom lashline,
· Apply a black line to the waterline, this step is optional,
· Use a lot of mascara,
· Make eyebrows a little less round/curved, this will make the eye look less round.

Deep set eyes:
When you analyze the eyes, you’ll see that the eyes are usually deep set, and will give the model a tired look.

Steps:

To make the eyelid stand out, apply light and or frosted color on the eyelid,
Make the crease slightly darker,
Make sure the darker eyeshadow doesn’t go near the eyebrow.
No dark eyeliner!
Use white eyepencil on the waterline(this step is optional)
Only use mascara on the tips of the lashes(when the model has dark lashes), or make sure the mascara is applied lightly with most of the mascara on the tips of the lash (when the model has blond lashes)

Small eyes:
With small eyes it looks as if the space between the eye and the eyebrow is very small. But when you look again, you can see that it’s actually the eye that’s too small for the face.

Steps:
· Use a light colored eyeshadow on eyelid and below eyes
· Don’t use black/dark eyeshadow, eyeliner or eye pencils, this will make the eye look even smaller.
· Optional; make the eyebrows smaller, and don’t make them darker.
· Optional: use white eyeliner in the eye,
· The “eyeshadow lines” you make with eyeshadow in crease and below the eye should not be closed. This will make the eye look more open and therefore larger.
· Only use mascara on the tips of the lashes(when the model has dark lashes), or make sure the mascara is applied lightly with most of the mascara on the tips of the lash (when the model has blond lashes)

Hooded eyelids:
Hooded eyelids are hanging over the actual eyelid itself, and because of that it’s barely visible. This eye often looks tired.
Steps:

Try to make the ‘hanging’ eyelid darker, you need to make a optical crease.
Make the eyelid itself lighter.
Stay inside the working area(don’t go outside the line between the outer tip of the eyebrow and the outer corner of the eye). This is something you’ll easily do with this eyeshape.
Apply highlighter underneath the highest part of the eyebrow.
Do not use eyeliner or eyepencil on the upper lash line,
The shadowline (the line drawn with eyepencil on the lower lashline) should be thin, if it ends thick on the outside, it can make the eye look even more tired.

Down turned eyes (bedroom eyes)
The outer corner islower that the inner corner, or is pointing down. This gives a sad look.
Steps:

First of all: stay with your working area!
Try to make the crease darker and thicker on the outer corner of the eye, going lighter and thinner towards the nose. This will optically lift the eye.
Use eyeliner: near the nose make the line thin, and let it get thicker towards the outer corner.
When you fill in the brows, start by the nose by making them a little lower, then draw them a little higher on the outer half of the brows.
Use extra highlighter underneath the highest part of the eyebrows.

Close set eyes:
Eyes are close set when there’s not enough space for one eye in between the eyes.

To optically add more distance between the eyes, use light eyeshadow on the inner half of the eyes, and use dark eyeshadow on the outer half. Keep the eye open by not closing the shadowlines.

Wide set eyes:
When there’s room for more than one eye in between the eyes, we speak of wide set eyes.

To bring the eyes optically closer, use darker colors on the inner corner and lighter colors on the outside of the eye. You can use a closed shadowline.