Step 2
After finding out the eye shape, we are going to decide what colors we’re going to use.

• When the model is wearing black, white or grey clothes, we look at the eye color to choose the eyeshadow color.
• When there’s a dominant color in the clothing, we can bring it back in the eyeshadow,
• Don’t use green eyeshadow when the eye is a bit red.
• It’s very pretty to use purple/violet on green eyes, with the exception of the model having redness in the eye. The gives the model a “I just cried” look.
• The lighter the skin color and hair, the lighter the make-up, and the darker the skin and hair, the darker and dramatically the make-up.
• The eyeshadow color should never be brighter than the eyecolor.

We are going to work with three colors:

• Light color: for the inner corner and as highlighter,
• Medium color: this is the color that will stand out, like green blue, orange etc.
• Crease color: this should be darker than the medium color, and we’ll use this to add extra shadow to the eye.

Step 3

After you’ve chose the colors, we’ll choose an eyepencil that matches to the other colors. Usually we use black, grey or brown. We’ll make a shadowline to the lower lashline; make sure this line goes in between the lashes. We’ll draw the shadowline from the outer corner towards the nose, and usually we stop in the middle of the eye. From there we’ll let the line blend away; we can use a cottonswap to blend the line out. To prevent the line from smudging, we’ll overdraw the line with eyeshadow; we’ll use the crease color for this.
Next we’ll remove the spilled eyeshadow from underneath the eye, and apply some powder under the eye: dip your finger in the powder and press it onto the place you’ll probably spill your eyeshadow, underneath the eye and on the cheek, leaving a large amount of the powder. The eyeshadow you’ll spill will fall on the powder and when you’re done with the eyeshadow, you’ll sweep the excess powder away, leaving no stains.

Step 4:

The model closes her eyes. We’ll start with the lightest eyeshadow color; apply to the inner corner of the eyelid, and underneath the highest point of the eyebrows. Make sure that both eyes look the same!

Step 5

Now we’ll apply the medium color, let the model look straight forward, let her focus on the mirror for example. Lift her eyebrow with you thumb. Use a small dense brush (like the 239) and apply color moving the brush from the outer corner of the eyelid towards the crease. Always work from the outside towards the nose, this way you won’t work outside your working area, and you apply more color to the outer corner of the crease. Apply the medium eyeshadow color in the crease and blend it up toward the browbone, into the lightest color. Don’t go apply over an already applied color, this will make a mess. Apply colors side to side, and then blend the colors together with a clean brush.

Step 6:

Next thing to do is to apply the darkest color a lightly in the crease, and outer corner. How much you apply depends on the kind of make-up. For a natural make-up keep it light, maybe even skip this last step, but you can go bold with a glamour make-up. Make sure that the eyeshadow is symmetrical to both eyes, and blend the colors well.

Step 7:

This step is optional, depending on the eyeshape, but you can apply eyeliner to the eyelid, close to the lashes. The smaller the eyelid, the less eyeliner you apply.

Step 8:

Apply mascara. Lift the eyebrows with you thumb and let the model look down. After you’ve applied the mascara, bomb the lashes with a lash comb, to remove the clumps. This is very important is the make-up is for a photoshoot

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now you're a star in heaven R.I.P. Jan


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