Help with clients' eyelashes!

bjorne_again · 08-10-2007, 01:00 PM #1 (**permalink**)

So I've been building my portfolio for the last few months with about a dozen photoshoots, some paid, some creatives, but I have a serious hate on for dealing with eyelashes, curlers, and mascara on other people. If you'd like me to post some of my work, I can. I'm asking here because I think only experienced MUAs can actually help.

Problems

(1)I can't seem to curl someone elses eyelashes very well with a standard curler. I am terrified of pinching them, and especially on people with smaller eyes/sockets this poses a problem. It might be the specific curler I'm using, so if you could suggest a better one(perhaps the Shu Uemura one?) please do. Also, I am planning on investing in a precision/corner lash curler, i'm looking at the Japonesque one here but it's $50 and I'm wondering if it's a rip? can I use it to replace a standard lash curler and use it on all lashes?

(2)I can never seem to get enough mascara on the wand to really coat someone's lashes. I got through 2-3 disposable wands for each person. It may be the brand of mascara i use (and i HATE maybelline great lash), or mascara wands so brand recommendations would be excellent!

(3)My actual mascara application is very light. I see a lot of MAs on TV and in person who just lightly brush mascara over the lashes and pretend it's done, but i find it's not intense enough b/c the lighter blonde or brown natural lash peaks through and it looks pretty unfinished - is there a way to get right down into someone's lashes without getting mascara on the lid? I usually start with my client looking downward with their eyes open and brush from underneath, and sometimes then go from above and twist the lashes around the brush and that seems to help, but still doesn't get right to the base of the lashes.

Until now, my solution has been to just cop out and use false lashes as often as I can, but I really would just like to improve my technique for when that isn't an option.

Can you guys suggest any tips for how to deal with eyelashes - curling and applying mascara especially? Thank you! Any help would be greatly appreciated

Thank you in advance!

GreekChick · 08-10-2007, 03:36 PM #2 (**permalink**)

1) This might seem odd, but for curling other ppl's lashes, I sometimes literally go right next, if not behind the person to actually be able to place the curler. The angle of their head is very important as well ( slightly tilted towards the back). I consider it effective for sliding the curler under those lashes and being able to see (when you're placed on their side) whether or not the curler will pinch their skin.
3) I have the same technique when applying mascara on other people. It's tough to get to the base on top, especially where blonde eyelashes are concerned. I deal with this by having the person close their eyes, as I place an angled foundation sponge under their eyes, but really close to their lashes. Next, I take a #266, fill it up with Carbon e/s, or better yet, Blacktrack fluidline, and swipe the base of their lashes, and really color them in.
Also, have you tried the #205 Mascara Fan Brush? It's excellent at reaching the base of the lashes. You can use this instead of the #266. It's also good for creating colored lashes (you just fill it up with any fluidline (Blue Peep is amazing) and apply to top lashes.

bjorne_again · 08-10-2007, 03:48 PM #3 (**permalink**)

Thank you so much! that was really helpful!

Actually, what i usually do to fix those lashes is use a brush like the 266 or smashbox #08 eyeliner brush and go over the base with a liquid liner or carbon shadow, but i was hopying there was a way around that. i'll have to retry blacktrack - i did it once and it didn't work out so well, but i think it's cause my blacktrack was getting old!

I don't get what you do with the fan brush though, do you sweep from underneath? and do you santize it after every use? I have shied away from buying it for fear of it being too fragile a brush to put through that much cleaning.

i'm going to try your suggestions on eyelash curling. getting behind them and tilting their heads... those are really good suggestions, thank you for your help! i usually go beside them when i do it, but you're probably right that it's better to get as close to a reverse angle as possible! thank you again!

GreekChick · 08-10-2007, 04:47 PM #4 (**permalink**)

Hey, you're welcome!
Actually, the #205 brush, aside from the #204 Lash Brush and the #206 Brow Groomer, is the firmest brush MAC has. It's not fragile at all, and can withstand alot of cleaning. I use mine to death, sanitize it all the time between makeovers, and months later, it's as good as new. It's really firm, it doesn't shed.
Some people sweep from underneath, like they would with a mascara. Unfortunetly, it's also more time consuming. It works really well when you apply mascara, and just need to create more separation, and get rid of clumps (I prefer it over a lash comb). I usually start by applying mascara, under/over the lashes, then I take the brush, separate the lashes, dip into into some fluidline (you're supposed to fill it with mascara but it's alot of work and it takes alot of time to fill that brush with a measly mascara wand, so I cheat), and just sweep the top of the lashes, getting the base. Whatever you do, don't use it with Carbon, or with any eyeshadow whatsoever. It will just fall under the eyes as your applying, and your application will be ruined. It's a synthetic brush, it works better with emollient based products.

Ella_ · 08-10-2007, 06:14 PM #5 (**permalink**)

Maybe try a heated lash wand? Ive got one for Asian client and it really curls their lashes, so if you arent comfortable using a standard curler a heated one is always an option.

As for mascara, try the MAC mascara fan brush and a little blacktrack. Big, gorgeous lashes with very little effort. I find its well worth the cost.

pixichik77 · 08-10-2007, 08:58 PM #6 (**permalink**)

I like the tweezerman eyelash curler, the one that is plastic with silicone pads but is open at the sides. I have a small precision/corner lash curler (either Tweezerman or Laura Mercier, cheaper than the Japoneque), but I have'nt been able to master it yet.

If I want a ton of mascara, I will coat top and bottom. Otherwise, i have the model look at the tip of her nose, hold the lid with my thumb to pull the lid up a bit, and REALLY get the applicator to the base. Then (if the lashes are particularly pale) I will dip a fresh mascara wand, and use an eyeliner brush to apply ascara at the base of the lashes. Or I will tightline just under the lashes (more in than under) with black to make the lashes look as full as possible.

martygreene · 08-13-2007, 07:01 PM #7 (**permalink**)

Part of this is practice. Beyond that, I do reccomend having a few different curlers of different sizes and styles, including a precision one. I've got one from Shu, a couple from Japonesque, and the Lady Wink, along with a few assorted others.

As for getting enough product- you will use more than one disposable per person, and that's OK. Try different brands of disposables, and try different mascaras. No one thing works for everyone. Also try mascara fans and cake mascaras.

For application, I do a combination of the short, quick, back and forth at the base of the lashes, along with vertical wand positioning, to get the application I want. It all depends on what I'm doing, and the person.

Dark_Phoenix · 08-15-2007, 09:18 AM #8 (**permalink**)

I'm not an MA, but have you tried curling lashes instead of crimping them?
In Face Foward, one of the pieces of advice is that instead of holding the curler for awhile at the base, you should be using it up the lash to form a natural curl. Like five to ten seconds as you walk it up. I do this myself with my Shu and it works really well.

Smaller, tinier brushes help you get baby hairs better than the large ones do. Maybelline Lash Discovery has a VERY small brush so you can get every single one.

pixichik77 · 08-15-2007, 08:15 PM #9 (**permalink**)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Emma_Frost

Smaller, tinier brushes help you get baby hairs better than the large ones do. Maybelline Lash Discovery has a VERY small brush so you can get every single one.

Yes it does, but unless you plan on on giving that tube of mascara to your clients, the brush that comes in the tube doesn't matter. Experiment with different disposables.

little_angel · 09-25-2007, 05:11 AM #10 (**permalink**)

i put my thumb over their lid, and sort of sandwitch their lashes between my wand and my thumb and wiggle to get a lot of mascara on... then i use the mascara fan brush to 'paint' the mascara on thickly at the root from above.

it really has come with practice, because that was one of the things i had the hardest time with at first!

also, do play with different types of mascara. i use a type of mascara on clients i never ever use on myself, just because it takes so well with the brush and is easy to put on from my angle.

pixichik77 · 09-25-2007, 11:36 AM #11 (**permalink**)

Sort of tangent... I love all the new mascaras that come with a short, wandless cap because the package is showing off the "special wand". I love these for my kit, no one tries to use it from the tube (which I used to accomplish by cutting the wand off anyway) and the tubes are not as large as they would be with wand inside. Hurray!