Bad chemicals for chemically straightened hair? And treatment recs?

[Goat Goat Etc.]

(Don't know if this belongs here, I assume it can if a hyper pigmentation thread can be here. Why not this?)

I'm no stylist.

But I know there's wacky stuff in hair products specifically or non-specifically for black hair.

If anyone could throw down any ingredients they know I should avoid in shampoos and conditioners and treatments please do!

I already know lye is bad. And some kind of sulfate not sure which.

Also, what could you recommend as a moisture treatment for chemically straightened hair? Techniques?

I've been watching vids on youtube of a WOC who recommends Alterna Caviar Hair Masque. Any tried it? It's a whopping 40 bucks! *stabs wallet*

 

[elektra513]

Ok, this kind of stuff is my hobby, I could go on for days...

But, I just want to get on the soapbox really quickly to say that lye is not bad. Improper use of lye is bad. So for those who use chemicals at home on their hair with no proper training (stylist or not), those people are decreasing the efficacy and success rate tremendously.

Anyhoo, on to shampoos and conditioners.
Shampoos: sulfates should be avoided if you overstyle your hair. Like wash and style every single day. The less frequently you shampoo, the more harmless a sulfate shampoo will be. Or if you have scalp issues, like dry itchy scalp or dandruff. I find that most people who say that sulfate shampoos dry their hair and scalp out are just using way too much product in their wash.

Conditioners: Avoid mineral oil and petroleum if you find your hair is dry. Or if you don't wash often; it'll make your hair seem drier.

 

[VioletB]

Ok.. I don't know anything about chemicals.. but I had my hair chemically straightened about two years ago and I totally regret it!! HOWEVER I have learned a lot from it, and my hair is finally growing and getting back to a healthy state.. I'm caucasian, but my hair is SOOO naturally curly and thick! My friend recommended a local african-american salon because my stylist had no idea where to start when I decided to straighten it. It was nice for a little while, but slowly my hair started breaking off so bad!! It was awful.. Everyone thought I'd cut a couple inches off my hair!

ANYWAY Here's my two cents for products:

I usually wash my hair once a week, and I currently use Pureology Hydrate (the purple bottle.) I get the gallons and they usually last like 6-12 months. They are pricey, but if you have any friends with cosmetology licenses, you can get a discount. It's sulfate free and leaves my hair feeling super soft. Every time I wash my hair, (I usually wash at night) I use some kind of mask... There's one by Redken called Real Control that works really good and it's only like 12 bucks for the tub. I like to leave it on 45 mins - 1 hr. (But that's probably too much.. I don't care I watch TV.

When my hair is wet I usually use the john frieda serum (from the grocery store) and that also helps to make my hair super soft and cuts down blowdry time.. I still flatiron my hair, but since I only do it once a week it seems to be ok and healthy! CHI makes a really nice serum called silk infusion but it's kind of heavy so a little goes along way.. I like it better than biosilk because I think biosilk has alcohol in it.. I can feel it evaporate off my fingers!!
TRUST ME I have tried EVERYTHING even super expensive stuff and this works for me! I've also tried Ojon (the shampoo, conditioner, and the mask) It was good for a couple of weeks but started leaving a waxy feeling buildup on my hair.. so.. don't waste your money.

Good luck I hope this helps! You can PM me for any more products.. I have seriously tried/bought/returned EVERYTHING!!

 

[AdrianUT]

While I do not relax my hair my haircare advice is this...
1. Everyone's hair is different. Avoiding or using certain ingredients doesn't work for everyone. It takes a lot of trial and error. Personally creamy moisturizers and hair butters don't work for me but, coconut oil and serums do. Products with a lot of "natural" ingredients don't work for me either due to allergies. Also shampoo with sulfates are fine for me and if I use a shampoo w/o them my hair is blah but others hair/scalp is dried out by them. I also put very little on my hair after washing and before styling.

2. Wash your hair at a schedule that works best for you. For me its once every 3-5 days or so in the summer and every 7-10 days max in the winter. I can tell I need to wash when it feels dry/rougher and increased shedding. Also deep condition as needed. I use almost anything thick and oil based or even apply coconut oil to dry hair and let it sit a few hours.

2. Leave your hair alone as much as possible. No excessive combing, brushing, heat styling. I only comb (large tooth comb) my hair when wrapping at night and unwrapping in the morning. If its out of place I finger style. I also only flat iron/heat style 1x week max and less in the summer.

 

[blazeno.8]

I used to model at events back home that were education seminars for area salons. One of the things they warned about was Head and Shoulders because it might work like a 2nd relaxer on some people. I think it had something to do with the pH level of the shampoo, but I can't remember what else they said about it.

 

[elektra513]

Also, you don't have to spend $40 per se on a treatment in order to keep hair healthy, but $1 conditioner isn't going to cut it, either. Set a budget, do some research and commit around 2-3 months of using a line consistently to give it time to work on the hair.

Also don't forget about keeping the scalp healthy--by that I mean treat your scalp just like the skin on your face. And eat well, exercise and keep stress at a minimum if you can help it.

My fave product lines are Joico (K-pak and Moisture Recovery), L'anza, Keracare, and Paul Mitchell. Each are reasonably priced lines where all the products in the line work best together, and you don't need to use a lot to see results.

Deep conditioning often and consistently (every week or every other week) is also key if you have damage or are chemically-treated. Regular trims are so important too, but should be based on individual needs...

 

[Goat Goat Etc.]

And indeed I need a trim. I'm going to have to stretch my relaxer hehe. But thank for those recommendations of lines they too are at Trade Secret where this $40 stuff is.

 

[elektra513]

I used to avoid trims like the plague because I thought it mean I had to get a haircut (which happened because I didn't get regular trims, go figure lol), but now that I trim every 8-10 weeks, the amount of hair she cuts is minimal, and my hair does much better for longer. I'm so mad I avoided it for so long, lol.

I stretch my relaxers every 12 weeks but I still trim every 8. Imo they are mutually exclusive. Your ends don't have much business with your roots, if that makes sense.

Even if you just relax every 8-10, that's still good. In my experience, its not really worth it to stretch beyond 12 wks (esp with extra kinky hair). But for my scalp, 8 weeks is too soon...

 

[Goat Goat Etc.]

Good, good! Also what about alcohol ingredients in products? I know one kind is bad for black hair. It isn't Cetyl Alcohol orPalmityl alcoholis it?

 

[elektra513]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Goat Goat Etc. Good, good! Also what about alcohol ingredients in products? I know one kind is bad for black hair. It isn't Cetyl Alcohol orPalmityl alcoholis it?

Nope those are fatty alcohols, which are great for the hair. They bind moisture or seal it in.

If you see isopropyl alcohol (yes, rubbing kind), then it's a no-go. Most alcohols in conditioners are the fatty kind, so you really only need to check styling products like gels or hair sprays, etc. That's where the issue is.

Not sure if you like shine sprays or oil sheens, but I love Chi Shine Infusion. It does what oil sheen is supposed to do without weighing the hair down/making it greasy, and it's alcohol free.

 

[Goat Goat Etc.]

Yes, thank you!
I have oil sheen and shine spray from Design. I like them.
I have a good stylist and everything, it's just I have a lousy check, and I'd like to be independent and do my own maintenance in between visits.

 

[Goat Goat Etc.]

But anywho I've been avoiding good things---I had an old stylist tell me this and that was bad in products. But since she decided to turn into a money hungry bitch and I left her--she seems hardly credible now. XD

 

[elektra513]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Goat Goat Etc. Yes, thank you! I have oil sheen and shine spray from Design. I like them. I have a good stylist and everything, it's just I have a lousy check, and I'd like to be independent and do my own maintenance in between visits.

Oh I hear ya! I want my stylist to always know that I come because I "choose" to, not because I "need" to, lol

I have the Design Essentials reflections spray and like it alot--I just have to spray it once in my hand, rub together then apply to the hair . I love lightweight hair that moves...

Just bought their oil sheen but haven't tried it, but I do believe it's lighter than the Keracare. Either way, I am ride-or-die for the Chi Shine Infusion spray.

 

[elektra513]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Goat Goat Etc. But anywho I've been avoiding good things---I had an old stylist tell me this and that was bad in products. But since she decided to turn into a money hungry bitch and I left her--she seems hardly credible now. XD

At the bold: Isnt' that how it always turns out?

I am so thankful for my current stylist--I've had many of those kind and got so fed up I learned how to do my own hair, relaxer everything. But I don't have time to stress over that stuff now, so I have this new woman supporting my efforts.

I seriously learned so much from doing it myself for years, that I am considering becoming a stylist...we'll see. I love makeup a lot more...

 

[Goat Goat Etc.]

Well I should start doing that for myself rather than spraying myself into a sheen cloud, haha.

 

[elektra513]

Quote:

Originally Posted by blazeno.8 I used to model at events back home that were education seminars for area salons. One of the things they warned about was Head and Shoulders because it might work like a 2nd relaxer on some people. I think it had something to do with the pH level of the shampoo, but I can't remember what else they said about it.

Yeah, pH of products is important, but not the end-all-be-all. I read in a study somewhere that a few of the popular drugstore products have way too high pH in the shampoo. I'll keep my salon quality stash all day long (pH4.5-5.5).

Head & Shoulders is crap stuff imo. If someone is using that b/c they have dandruff there are many other alternatives on the market now that it should be avoided (Nioxin Scalp Recovery and Mizani being the best I've seen)...

 

[elektra513]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Goat Goat Etc. Well I should start doing that for myself rather than spraying myself into a sheen cloud, haha.

Get the hazmat (sp?) suit ready. It's oil sheen time

 

[blazeno.8]

^ Hammer Time's got nothing on Oil Sheen Time.

Anyways, I usually use stuff by Kera Care. I use shampoos that are specifically for hair that has been processed and I also use their oils. It has been a life saver for me, especially when I travel to places where I can't seem to find any WOC with processed hair that is well taken care of.

 

[TheBigO]

Quote:

Originally Posted by elektra513 Ok, this kind of stuff is my hobby, I could go on for days... But, I just want to get on the soapbox really quickly to say that lye is not bad. Improper use of lye is bad. So for those who use chemicals at home on their hair with no proper training (stylist or not), those people are decreasing the efficacy and success rate tremendously. Anyhoo, on to shampoos and conditioners. Shampoos: sulfates should be avoided if you overstyle your hair. Like wash and style every single day. The less frequently you shampoo, the more harmless a sulfate shampoo will be. Or if you have scalp issues, like dry itchy scalp or dandruff. I find that most people who say that sulfate shampoos dry their hair and scalp out are just using way too much product in their wash. Conditioners: Avoid mineral oil and petroleum if you find your hair is dry. Or if you don't wash often; it'll make your hair seem drier.

Well, I don't think it's that simple. Sulfates get a pretty bad rep but they are actually good for chemically-relaxed hair. The key is to know how to use them.
All-natural shampoos can cause a lot of build on scalp and hair that is already damaged. Sulfate shampoos can get all that gunk off easy. There are shampoos that have sulfates but are less harsh than others. A wonderful recommendation is Miss Jessie's Super Sudsy shampoo and Oscar Blandi Crema.
Mineral Oil and Petroleum are not always the enemy for some hair. They are not my product of choice because they clog my hair and cause it to smell after a few days. But, there have been ladies who've used mineral oil-laden products with great results. I've used one or two that worked.

Natural oils are nice but some don't mix too well with thinner strands. Two nice airy one is Meadowfoam and Sunflower seed oil. Safflower is also a thin-hair girls dream. If you have thick strands, a butter-rich conditioner is the way to go or one that has a base made of thick, viscous oils like Castor or Marula butter.
There are really great conditioners that work wonders of relaxed hair: Jessicurl Weekly Deep Treatment, Mixed Chicks Deep conditioner, Oscar Blandi Crema, anything by Pantene Pro-V and Herbal Essence (one with blue bottle).

 

[elektra513]

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheBigO Well, I don't think it's that simple. Sulfates get a pretty bad rep but they are actually good for chemically-relaxed hair. The key is to know how to use them. All-natural shampoos can cause a lot of build on scalp and hair that is already damaged. Sulfate shampoos can get all that gunk off easy. There are shampoos that have sulfates but are less harsh than others. A wonderful recommendation is Miss Jessie's Super Sudsy shampoo and Oscar Blandi Crema. Mineral Oil and Petroleum are not always the enemy for some hair. They are not my product of choice because they clog my hair and cause it to smell after a few days. But, there have been ladies who've used mineral oil-laden products with great results. I've used one or two that worked. Natural oils are nice but some don't mix too well with thinner strands. Two nice airy one is Meadowfoam and Sunflower seed oil. Safflower is also a thin-hair girls dream. If you have thick strands, a butter-rich conditioner is the way to go or one that has a base made of thick, viscous oils like Castor or Marula butter. There are really great conditioners that work wonders of relaxed hair: Jessicurl Weekly Deep Treatment, Mixed Chicks Deep conditioner, Oscar Blandi Crema, anything by Pantene Pro-V and Herbal Essence (one with blue bottle). [/color]

I agree with all you've stated here. Not all shampoos are good for hair, regardless of whether or not they contain sulfates. Some sulfate-free shampoos suck because of the formulation of ingredients and the pH of the product, not solely because they are sulfate free. Some non-sulfate detergents are actually quite drying because they strip off more natural oils than standard sulfates...

Same point can be applied to sulfate shampoo products...it's all about the ingredients, which is why I mentioned salon quality products that I or someone I know have used with long-term (2+ yrs) success.

And yes, mineral oil is great...if it is pharmaceutical grade. As a mention, Dr. Ali Syed is removing all the mineral oil/petroleum & sulfates from the Keracare line not because of any actual dangers, but because of perceived dangers and misconceptions.

Also, if you have really dry hair and you do not wash your hair a lot (meaning once every 2 wks) and use a petroleum based styling product, the hair will seem drier than it really is. Solution? Wash that hair more often if you want to keep using that product. The scalp should be avoided when using those kinds of products anyways...occlusives are meant for the hair, not the scalp.

But in the end its all about the individual and how they want their hair to behave. It will never be an end-all/be-all scenario for everyone. What I stated was based on my experience with my hair and those around me in the black haircare industry.

Edit: Also note that the majority of the products I mentioned aren't sulfate-free