Help with eye makeup

[Abbie76]

Hi Girls,

I recently found this site & find it great. I am currently in training to become a makeup artist only am finding it very hard with a certain area. I am probably thinking it to death to be honest.. I am fine with most things but am really not confident on putting makeup properly on the eye crease. I can do it fine with myself & people always compliment my makeup but on others I really struggle. Firstly I find it hard to find it then when I do I find it difficult to get a clean looking line like everyone else seems to get. I use all of mac's brushes so its not my tools but I just think I am missing something.. Does anyone know where there is a tutorial on putting makeup on others as its much easier to do yourself than other people or even give me some tips so it will finally click!!!!

Thanks.

 

[martygreene]

Firstly, remember that everyone has different anatomy. Not every has a crease at all, and beyond that not everyone has a crease of the same depth or location if they do have one. Both eyes may differ from each other. Not all eyes benefit from the method of application which utilizes the crease.

Past that, practice. Just becuase you use "all of MAC's brushes" doesn't mean you have the right tool for you and for the anatomy on which you are working. Try different things. Try different brushes. There is no set way of doing this.

 

[Abbie76]

Hi, thanks for that,

are there any good brushes you would recommend?

 

[thelilprincess]

i agree with marygreene (i can do simple looks for myself and others, but none of the brighter, vivid colors - still have to practice blending and different techniques)

if you check out Snowkei's FOTD where Victor did her makeup using only one brush - it's fabulous. now that's skill. i hope one day to be half as good. here's the link http://specktra.net/showthread.php?t=74290

HTH!

 

[martygreene]

Abbie- I can't reccomend anything specific to you when it comes to tools, as these are very personal depending on your individual technique, the size and shape of your hands, the size and shape of your client's anatomy, the type of product being used, etc. I can tell you that Vee's Favorite, Nars, Make Up For Ever, A Design, and Royal all make very good brushes. Again, it depends on too many variables for me to tell you what to use and how. That's something you have to determine for yourself on your own.

 

[NaturalSister19]

Go to:

www.angelswhoblush.com

The make-up artist there is named Erin Shaw. He has an extensive resume` and many years of experience. Just register there, he has 30 minute video tutorials covering different looks and he pays a lot of attention to the eye. You can view them for free and there is also premium content (instructional DVDs...) that you can purchase.

I have looked at all of the free ones and he has some great tips that will probably help you to develop YOUR technique. Once you really get into this, you'll find yourself falling in love with ALL quality brushes; and with experience, you'll soon have a 'technique' specific to each individual one.

>>>The crease is the area where the brow bone ends and the eyeball itself begins. The brow bone is the upper half of that circular opening in the skull that the eye sits in. Reach up and feel yours. It runs from the bridge of the nose (inner crease) to the outer eye area (outer crease). You can actually feel the arc shape of the bone itself. Now notice that space between there and your eyeball? That's your crease and would be the same for most people.

As MartyGreene said ^^^ just remember to take into account the other factors that lend to one's facial anatomy i.e, deep set, almond shaped, prominent or slitty-like eyes... - genetics, racial heritage and etc. Like mentioned previously there are a lot of differences in people, but these basics apply to everyone. This can help you find 'the crease'.

>>>Try this when doing someone's eyes: Use a medium sized eye shadow brush (without color in it). Gently move the brush back and forth in an arc shape just above the eyelid-below the brow bone, you'll feel the crease and you will also notice how the brush will sink into that area. You can then adjust your and shading of the eye using that persons built-in template. Think of eye shadow as a tool to accentuate the facial anatomy. From the beauty make-up perspective, it is a MUA's job to immitate what is there and, again accentuate.

>>>I like #219 for a tight defined crease & #275 for a softly shaded crease. You'll find your own favs soon. Don't over-think it. Just study, study, study make-up looks everywhere. Take a few days and become obsessed with 'creases'. Go crease spotting!

It'll be a snap before you know it.

 

[MisStarrlight]

Quote:

Originally Posted by NaturalSister19 Go crease spotting!

Hahaha...I do this ALLL the time. I'm constantly staring at people's eyeshapes & planning out looks for them. It started out as a hobby, something to pass the time on the train, but now it's like an obsession. It really does help though.

 

[Abbie76]

Thanks again for your tips! Next time I am on the train I will definately do some crease spotting haha.. I can find the crease ok & do a good defined line on myself its just on others.. I find it hard to actually draw the line neatly as I find the skin sort of gets in the way - if that makes sense???!! Also do you start in the centre of the eye when applying shadow into the crease or the side?

 

[NaturalSister19]

Try holding the eye area slightly taut with your thumb by raising the arch of their brow a little to smooth the skin more.

 

[Abbie76]

Great thanks!! I went 'eyebrow watching' Any tips for those who don't seem to have any visible eye crease at all?

 

[martygreene]

Some people don't have a visible crease, and this is what I was getting at. The technique of applicaton changes per face and anatomy. There is not one set style of applying eye colors. Generally speaking, trying to create a fake crease on those without one (usually those of asian decent) looks off, and often illicits remarks from the client that they don't want to be "anglicized" but want something that works with what they have.

Different anatomy, different application. You want to work with what they have, not against it. Just like some eye shapes look good with winged eye makeup and some don't. Some you'll want the lashes fuller in the middle, others fuller on one corner or the other. It all depends on how their face is built.

 

[dmenchi]

Quote:

Originally Posted by martygreene Some people don't have a visible crease, and this is what I was getting at. The technique of applicaton changes per face and anatomy. There is not one set style of applying eye colors. Generally speaking, trying to create a fake crease on those without one (usually those of asian decent) looks off, and often illicits remarks from the client that they don't want to be "anglicized" but want something that works with what they have. Different anatomy, different application. You want to work with what they have, not against it. Just like some eye shapes look good with winged eye makeup and some don't. Some you'll want the lashes fuller in the middle, others fuller on one corner or the other. It all depends on how their face is built.

I couldn't agree more. It's soo horrible when people try to create or 'draw' on a fake crease on no crease eyes/ asians. There are so many more flattering eye designs. LOL- i love the fake crease with paralell running fake eybrow..omg ..anybody know what i'm talking about ?

 

[aziza]

Quote:

Originally Posted by martygreene Some people don't have a visible crease, and this is what I was getting at. The technique of applicaton changes per face and anatomy. There is not one set style of applying eye colors. Generally speaking, trying to create a fake crease on those without one (usually those of asian decent) looks off, and often illicits remarks from the client that they don't want to be "anglicized" but want something that works with what they have. Different anatomy, different application. You want to work with what they have, not against it. Just like some eye shapes look good with winged eye makeup and some don't. Some you'll want the lashes fuller in the middle, others fuller on one corner or the other. It all depends on how their face is built.

*Clicks "Thanks" button*

 

[Abbie76]

Thanks again for all the replies.. hopefully it sinks in.. No doubt I will be picking your brains soon..!!!!