fashioniztah_07
Well-known member
Quote:
the bottom jar on my pink opal looks authentic except for da missing shade number.
the bottom jar on my pink opal looks authentic except for da missing shade number.
Originally Posted by fashioniztah_07
the bottom jar on my pink opal looks authentic except for da missing shade number. |
Originally Posted by Xqueeze_me
This post has been revamped. MAC Pigments, authentic AND counterfeit, compared are:
**Please note that (C)ounterfeit is always on the LEFT side and (A)uthentic is always on the RIGHT side in the pictures.** <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><> <> ********BOX SECTION******** Top of Boxes: ~ Fonts on the (A) colour label shows consistency in printing, sizing and spacing whereas fonts on the (C) colour label shows inconsistency in printing, sizing and spacing. ~ Positions of (A) colour labels are located on the TOP RIGHT corner on top of the box whereas (A) colour labels are located on the bottom left corner. Here's the classic FAKES! ~ These are classic FAKES because it's just a letter and number on both the top of the boxes and bottom of the jars. (A) labels on top of box should be the colour name and (A) labels on the bottom of the jars should be the colour name and batch code (except for Glitters). ~ Leftover residue from another sticker label found on (C) Dark Soul box. ~ (C) colour labels have a BLACK base whereas (A) colour labels have a white under base. ~ (C) Dark Soul and (C) Pink Vivid have scratches leading to the colour labels and some previous sticker residue was left there, which indicates that the previous colour labels have been removed and replaced with another. ~ Bubbles underneath (C) colour labels on top of boxes may indicate that a previous label sticker have been removed OR its just plain crap label-sticking technique. ~ When the top is flipped up/open, you can read the (A) colour label as is, whereas you have to turn your head upside down to read the (C) colour labels (with the display hole facing you). Front of Boxes: ~ Printing is done poorly on the (C) boxes. caffn8me has mentioned that MAC is very strict with printing. ~ On the (C) boxes, the first "/" after Net Wt. is vertical compared to the 2nd "/" after 7.5g on the Net Weight description just below the display hole - Golden Olive boxes. ~ Pink Vivid - (C) Pink Vivid is 7.5g whereas (A) Pink Vivid is 2.5g and the "/" error on the (C) box as well. ~ Sometimes, the Net Weight description on the (C) boxes are way too close to the display hole. ~ MAC logo on (C) boxes are bolder than the (A) boxes. Back of Boxes: ~ Printing (AGAIN!) done poorly on (C) boxes. ~ (A) boxes spell POLVOS CON PIGMENTOS whereas (C) boxes spell POLVOS CON PLGMENTOS - Pin-point PIGMENTOS error. ~ (A) boxes show consistency in line spacings whereas (C) shows inconsistency in spacing between TORONTO, ONTARIO and CANADA M5V 1R7, LONDON WIK 3BQ - Pin-point spacing error. Bottom of Boxes: ~ (A) barcodes are STICKER LABELS whereas (C) barcodes are printed onto the boxes. ~ (A) barcodes are different when it comes to different MAC Pigments.. (C) barcodes on the other hand are IDENTICAL even when it comes to different pigments - Comparisons. ~ Batch codes on (A) MAC Pigment jars FOLLOW the (A) barcodes or batch codes embossed onto the back of the box - Comparisons. ~ Obviously, (C) batch codes on the jars and boxes do NOT follow each other. ~ Counterfeiters take ONE box and print thousands of them, including the leaflets. The 3 (C) boxes show. ********JAR SECTION******** Labels on bottom of Jars: ~ (C) Pink Vivid is DEFINITELY a fake because the month of production is 0?? ~ Font difference between (A) colour labels and (C) colour labels. ~ Colour labels difference - (C) colour labels are big with smooth shiny surface whereas the (A) colour labels are smaller with less to no shine. Inner Cover Lids: ~ The (A) lid has a 4 digit number on the outer lid, another 4 digit number, 2 digit number, 1 digit number AND "Colt-ainer III" in raised lettering on the inner circle while the other (C) lid does not have anything on them. Base and Bottom of Jars (Marine Ultra is the only authentic jar): ~ The (A) has a 4 digit number, 2 digit number, 1 digit number AND "Colt-ainer III" in raised lettering on the INSIDE bottom and OUTSIDE base of the jar. ~ (C) jars are all smooth and have NO raised lettering or whatsoever. ~ Comparisons - (C) base of jars are THICKER compared to the (A) base of jars. Crappy Glue Job on the wad seal for the (C) Lids: ~Wad seals were glued loosely to the black cover cap. <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><> <> caffn8me - As for swatching fakes, please be very careful. You have no idea what ingredients are in the fake pigments and other counterfeit products have been found to fail safety tests. NEVER use them on your face and if you swatch them on your hand (which I personally wouldn't do) then wash them off very quickly as soon as you've taken the picture. Ambi- Well, they might contain just about anything, like rat poison, there's no way of knowing [without some professional chemistry] and people who make these probaby don't give a crap if someone goes blind or something, they just want your money. I hope you will find this guide useful. Please pass it on if someone needs help with identifying MAC Pigments. Also, please feel free to add any extra information that I have missed out on the counterfeit and/or fake MAC Pigments! Thank you! *PHEW.. Took me 4 hours to revamp this post!* |